While its beauty, uniqueness, and natural value are universally acknowledged, the Mrtvica River and its surroundings have awaited formal protection and Nature Park status for three years.

The river, as locals describe, connects and separates, acting as both a nurturing mother and a stern stepmother. Legends suggest that it once carried everything before it, ultimately “naming itself.” Over time, it has enchanted tourists globally, becoming a challenge for adventurers, an inspiration for travel writers, a refuge for those seeking relaxation from fast-paced life, and a part of local tradition and folklore…

However, misunderstandings have arisen regarding the significance and necessity of formal protection. Some residents in the Kolašin area perceive the Nature Park designation as a restriction on their rights, and institutions often struggle to dispel prejudices linked to a process meant to benefit those who profess to love and understand Mrtvica and its vicinity the most.

The initiative to protect the Mrtvica River and the Morača River’s upper reaches was initiated in 2022 by an eco-team along with The Nature Conservancy, supported by the then-Ministry of Ecology, Spatial Planning, and Urbanism, and endorsed by the Kolašin Municipality. This initiative forms part of a larger, multi-year campaign aimed at protecting the rivers of Southeast Europe, launched by The Nature Conservancy in collaboration with local partners in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Croatia, North Macedonia, and Serbia.

Two Protection Zones

In 2023, the Environmental Protection Agency prepared a study proposing the area’s designation as a Nature Park spanning over seven thousand hectares. The future Nature Park is expected to cover the cadastral municipalities of Velje Duboko, Liješnje, Osreci (a small part), Međuriječje, Vlahovići, and Bulatovići. The lengthy public debate regarding the draft study revealed that many still misunderstand that Nature Park status does not equate to a ban, but rather entails respecting this natural jewel and its surrounding communities.

Milovan Vlahović, Secretary for Environmental Protection, informed “Vijesti” that the protection procedure is anticipated to conclude by year-end, with a compromise reached with local residents. In the interim, he noted that some private plots were excluded from the protected area based on the owners’ requests.

The canyon is home to 122 species of moss, representing a fifth of Montenegro’s total moss flora.

The draft study highlights that the Mrtvica River Canyon is one of the most stunning in Montenegro and the Dinarides. Two protection zones are identified within the proposed Nature Park – one under a level II protection regime and another under a level III regime. The strictest protection zone was not proposed to prevent potential conflicts with local communities’ needs.

“The Mrtvica is a right tributary of the Morača River, extending 20 km along the northern and northeastern flanks of Mount Maganik. Its springs are found on the slopes of Vojinovac, above Višnja at an altitude of 1650 meters. In Velje Duboko, the river receives two streams from Rogođeda and Jablanova vrh. Here, the valley widens over three kilometers, and during summer months, portions of the Mrtvica flow underground.

As it leaves Velje Duboko, the Mrtvica has carved a deep canyon through Jurassic and Cretaceous limestone over 7.5 km, with sides reaching heights of 1,100 meters,” the draft study states.

The canyon’s significance was further enhanced by humans through the construction of a hiking trail in the vertical rocks of Mrtvički grede, allowing residents of Velji Duboko to reach Međurečje for the first time in the 70s. This challenging task was undertaken by the Army of the former Yugoslavia, led by General Danilo Jauković. The feat is still remembered by the people of Rovač, and the trail, popular among tourists, is known as Danilov put.

The study indicated that “the Mrtvica Canyon is not merely a geomorphological and hydrogeological phenomenon, but rather a complex ecosystem where various living communities integrate physical, chemical, and biological systems.” It is recognized as an Important Plant Area (IPA), housing 122 species of moss, which represent a fifth of Montenegro’s total moss flora.

The Fairy from Maganika Grants Pure Wishes

The Mrtvica River and its surroundings have long inspired those who gather historical facts and myths alike. Some of the most captivating folk tales are tied to this region within the Kolašin municipality. The aptly named Gate of Wishes in the canyon is noteworthy, believed to be a site where the fairy from Maganika fulfills genuine wishes.

“The gate consists of two rocks meeting at the top, adorned with moss and trees. To see a wish granted, one must throw a stone into the river in total silence and without ill intentions; otherwise, misfortune may return,” explains local chronicler Branislav Jeknić.

Even today, many strive to reach the Wishing Gate while testing the “truth” of that tale.

Nearby is the former Velja Lazba katun, accessible only to the most skilled climbers. A legend tells of a Bulatović from Rovaci who discovered a fertile patch of land perched high in a cliff in the mid-1900s, later published in “Glas Crnogorca.” It narrates a story of resilience, determination, and keeping one’s promises.

“The site is intriguingly and oddly positioned. Between Mrtvi Duboki and Velji Duboki, a cliff rises, connecting its western end to the peaks of Mount Maganika. At an altitude of 400 to 450 meters lies a flat terrace (lastvica, lazba), known as “Velja Lazba,” spanning seven to eight acres of arable land, abundant running water, and ample grazing fields for livestock. Necessity drives people to all sorts of ventures, and nothing has escaped the greed of the wealthy – a man from Rov has since built a home here, despite the hard work and effort it required,” the newspaper recounts.

The locals of Rovča told the journalist that during tribal discussions, the question arose numerous times: “Thank God, could anyone climb up there?” While most doubted its possibility, “one among them eventually had the idea to try his luck.” They spoke of him “studying the cliff for a long time” and spotting a few sprouts, cracks in the rocks, and even hornbeam roots wedged in any crevice, convincing him they were rooting in solid stone.

“This motivated our farmer, and believing he could achieve his goal, he shared his intention with relatives and neighbors. News spread quickly across the village, and at gatherings and meetings, discussions revolved around this endeavor. Some laughed, others teased him, but this only fueled his determination,” shared “Glas Crnogorca” from 120 years ago.

Danilov Bridge on Mrtvica

Ultimately, the individual from Rovčanin successfully reached the once inaccessible fertile land, living there alone initially, later bringing his family to manage the farm without descending for a whole year, except perhaps to tend to a small plot left in the village.

“Once, Grand Duke Mirko Petrović passed by that location and noticed smoke. He inquired about it and was informed about the settlement. Upon understanding, he decreed that the man would not pay taxes on his land or livestock forever, and that decree remains to this day,” it was reported in “Glas Crnogorca” from 120 years ago.

Jeknić also highlights the importance of Danilo’s Bridge on the Mrtvica, constructed in 1858 by Prince Danilo I Petrović in memory of his mother, Krstinja. This bridge has been designated a cultural and historical monument since 1957. Nearby is an old wooden bridge connecting the villages of Mrtvo Duboko and Međuriječje.

This narrative is only a snippet of the treasure that Mrtvica and its surroundings present. There are numerous reasons for the state to protect this part of Kolašin municipality. Formal protection would safeguard against anything that threatens this harsh but fragile natural system, especially in times of negligence and ignorance. Furthermore, locals need to recognize that safeguarding Mrtvica equates to preserving their cultural, ecological, and economic heritage and identity. Only then can they view the river’s protection not as an obligation or state imposition, but as a shared point of pride.

Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

Mrtvo Duboko is home to the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

“It is believed to have been relocated from Međuriječje during the rule of Ban Ivaniš in 1737. It underwent significant renovations during hieromonk Josif Bulatović’s tenure from 1826 to 1876. He also constructed a dormitory called čardak adjacent to the church. It was renovated again in 1897, ordered by Mitrofan Ban, funded by the bequest left by Josif for the church’s upkeep. Close to the church is Vranštica cave, situated at 580 meters above sea level, extending 756 meters in length and 45 meters in depth, rich in variously colored, sized, and shaped cave sediments,” states Jeknić.

News