Fourteen years ago, Rajko Popović and his sons, Dejana and Vuk, were introduced to the exhilarating world of mountaineering by a friend. Their recent achievement—climbing the notorious North Face of the Eiger, a daunting 1,800-meter vertical rock face in the Bernese Alps—stands as a testament to their dedication, marking a significant milestone in their mountaineering journey.

“This is the pinnacle of our mountaineering career. Climbing this iconic route is a dream many mountaineers share, just as we did eight years ago when we initially faced this challenge and attempted it twice. This is the most significant achievement in Montenegrin mountaineering,” they revealed on March 7 via the Facebook page of “Slobodni penjači Cetinje – Alpinistički klub.”

In a conversation with “Vijesti,” Rajko Popović reflects on the “Eiger” expedition, their various expeditions, the inception of the “Free Climbers,” Montenegro’s mountaineering potential, and the state’s perception of this discipline, which lacks the recognition of a sport in Montenegro.

“Montenegro possesses immense potential in mountaineering; in terms of results, we are currently leading in the region, second only to Croatia,” he stated, emphasizing that the country’s topography and access to climbing sites are advantageous…

“However, in institutional terms—regarding personnel, the count of qualified alpine trainees, and the promotion of alpinism—we are at the bottom.

ENCOUNTER AT THE DENTIST

The Popović family has been paving the way for Montenegrin mountaineering for 14 years, exploring over 30 caves in Cetinje municipality. Last year, in the village of Kosijeri, they explored Matan’s Cave, leading to the debunking of a three-century-old myth.

Sometimes friends jokingly express their disbelief at their adventurous pursuits, saying, “You’re not normal.”

This journey began serendipitously, about 14 years ago, when Rajko was at the dentist, accompanied by his friend, Duško Bjegović.

“He shared his mountaineering experience on Bobotov Kuk. I became eager to climb what was then the highest peak in Montenegro with my sons. That initial adventure sparked our journey; soon enough, we transitioned to more challenging mountaineering activities that provided greater excitement and adrenaline.

Shortly after, a pivotal moment occurred when they fashioned their own climbing harness, firstly utilized by Rajko, followed by Dejan and Vuk, who were 14 and 12 years old at that time, to descend from their attic.

“Dejan found a climbing harness design online, and I supplied him with materials from an old car harness. Dejan hand-stitched the harness, and I was the first to test it, descending a 12-meter ledge from our house, secured by a punching bag holder in the attic as our anchor point. It was thrilling to jump across the windows of the four-story home, and soon after, Dejan followed, then Vuk, all to the astonishment of their grandfather, who witnessed this spectacle through the living room window,” Rajko recalls. The exhilaration and joy they experienced at that moment assured them of their future in such activities.

Even as kids, Dejan and Vuk were enthusiastic participants in these shared adventures with their father.

“After our initial rappelling, we found even more reasons to venture into nature—exploring hidden corners of Lovćen, descending into caves, climbing rocks, camping, and indulging in various mountain activities across seasons,” their father explains.

All these experiences in nature motivated them in various aspects of life.

“Our outdoor activities varied by season: mountaineering, sport climbing, caving, snowboarding down slopes… My connection with my sons has been deep since their birth, united through sports and hobbies,” he adds.

EXPEDITION EIGER

Prior to their successful ascent of Eiger, the Popovićs had attempted it in 2017 and 2018.

“Toward the end of 2016, after scaling the Matterhorn via the Lion Route, Dejan proposed our next venture should be the Eiger—not via the ridge, but the north face. At that time, it seemed like a wildly ambitious idea, given our limited experience of less than three years in mountaineering,” Rajko reflects, noting their lack of requisite endurance, technique, knowledge, and cold resistance at the time.

“Though we were ambitious, we were not prepared. In 2017, we turned back after 500 meters, and in 2018, we halted after 700 meters due to the risk of encountering avalanches in June when the north face is typically not climbed. We wanted to avoid the harsh cold,” he explains, asserting that conceding was never an option.

“Now, we fully appreciate the significance of this accomplishment and the esteem the North Face holds among climbers worldwide, highlighted by its ED2 rating,” he states.

Rajko and Dejan ascended the north face of Eiger via the Hekmajer-Harer route using traditional climbing techniques.

“Employing traditional mountaineering methods, we successfully navigated the ‘last problem of the Alps,’ the north face of Eiger, which rises to 3,970 meters, spanning a sheer vertical wall of 1,800 meters, ED2, V+, M6, WI5, in 24 hours from March 5th to 6th. We completed our descent today via the western side. At 3,640 meters, we endured another cold night outdoors, totaling 60 hours of active climbing, all at an air temperature of -17°C. Our camp was a precarious perch on a small ledge where two people could barely squeeze in, suspended above a 1,500-meter drop. Remarkably, for the duration of our climb and subsequent descent, we encountered no one else on the Eiger,” they shared on March 7th.

Rajko asserts that their exploits on both the north face of Eiger and Grand Žoras last year signify the pinnacle of Montenegrin and neighboring countries’ alpine pursuits.

“As recognized by seasoned mountaineers and the Montenegrin Mountaineering Commission, of which I am a member, this represents the crowning achievement of our careers.”

PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHALLENGE

The Popovićs’ prior expeditions were mostly unplanned. However, their preparations for the Eiger climb were much more thorough.

“Our previous expeditions involved spontaneous planning; however, the preparations for the north face of Eiger required substantial commitment. We engaged in intensive training in the Prokletije mountains under extreme winter conditions, spending four separate stints of three to four days camping in the Prokletije massif,” Rajko recounts.

During that period, they accomplished several pioneering climbs, including the first winter ascent of Maja e Čokistes, repeating two existing routes in Karanfili, and ascending the western and southwestern aspects of Karanfili. They also made the first winter ascent of the Zastanit peak, thereby writing new chapters in the history of mountaineering in Prokletije, as they had in past years for Montenegrin mountaineering.

Climbing two to three times monthly while hauling up to 30 kilograms of gear turned their trips into mini expeditions.

“What did Peter Podgornik, the legendary Slovenian alpinist, say during a phone call? He noted that every venture into the Prokletije is akin to a mini expedition for us, as we carry upwards of 30 kilograms to reach the rock face. This training has greatly enhanced our physical strength,” Rajko states.

Their technical skills were sharpened by tackling increasingly difficult routes, ensuring nothing would surprise them on the north face of Eiger.

“Our climbs in Prokletije exposed us to harsh conditions where we often encountered powdery, sugar-like snow while scaling sheer walls, tackling hours with frozen fingers and sometimes toes,” Rajko continues.

Mentally, they prepared holistically, with extended days spent within the Prokletije massif bringing them peace even amidst extreme weather.

As for logistics, the “Vijesti” interviewee mentions that planning for Eiger had been ongoing for years.

“Forecasting weather conditions is crucial, and I usually examine data from the past two years. The risk of rockfalls on Eiger’s north face is substantial, prompting our decision to climb in winter. While temperatures are lower, we avoid the rockfall dangers we encountered in June 2018, which was perilous. It’s also critical not to overthink while on the climb, as worry can sap energy and morale, which are crucial for a venture fraught with challenges,” he adds, mentioning the role of his wife, Tamara, in maintaining their spirits.

CHALLENGES AND EMOTIONS

The ascent of the north face of Eiger presented its share of difficulties.

“The most dramatic moment occurred when Dejan, after scaling 700 meters vertically, began vomiting and struggling with fatigue from pushing too hard. I cautioned him to slow down, advising hydration and nourishment. Alas, that compromised his endurance. I took on the belaying role while Dejan, completely exhausted and displaying severe symptoms, struggled to climb. Every five meters solid vertical proved taxing, with him pausing against the snow, ice, or rock to recuperate until we reached the 1,000-meter mark. Post a night’s rest on the ledge, he was better prepared, ensuring we could reach the summit safely the next day.”

After 14 hours of vertical ascent, they reached the summit, feeling drained yet relieved, with worries about their safety lifted.

“Post-summit, we still had a 1,700-meter descent on the western side. Abseiling down the rope, darkness fell upon us. We spent the night outdoors at 3,640 meters, enduring -17 degree temperatures. As soon as we lay down, the wind picked up to 30 kilometers an hour, but thankfully ceased after midnight…”

For the Popovićs, the climb of the north face of Eiger signified a monumental achievement and affirmation of their capabilities.

FAMILY BOND AND TRUST

Rajko and Dejan dedicated their Eiger climb to Bodin, Vuk’s son, born while they were on their way to Switzerland.

“It was a uniquely heartfelt moment! A bit awkward, as it unfolded while traveling… Our daughter-in-law, Andjela, was hospitalized the evening we reached Slovenia and gave birth to a beautiful baby boy named Bodin. Although we missed those first few days and the celebration of my grandson’s arrival, the end result was perfect. Thus, we dedicate this mountaineering accomplishment to him.”

Support among family members is incredibly important to the Popovićs.

“Our trust in each other is vital. Over the years, my wife has learned to trust me to make sound decisions in our adventures. For the past three years, she has actively participated in nature activities with us and has even passed the mountain guide exam, nearing the final stages of becoming a licensed mountain guide. My younger son, Vuk, has been somewhat less involved in the past year due to other commitments, yet he remains with us in spirit, even while being in Cetinje as we took on Eiger.”

VUK, THE YOUNGEST CLIMBER ON THE MATTERHORN FROM ITALY

Before Eiger, the Popovićs climbed multiple renowned peaks such as Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monch, Grosslockner, Weisshorn, the Three Peaks of Lavaredo, and Grand Juraes… For Rajko, summiting the Matterhorn via the Lion Ridge was incredibly special, achieved less than three years after they embarked on their mountaineering journey.

“At that time, my youngest son Vuk was just 16, earning the title of the youngest climber globally to ascend the Matterhorn from Italy. It was a deeply emotional moment for me because I regard that ascent as unique given our minimal experience, especially with my sons being minors at the time.”

Each expedition comes with its share of anecdotes:

“During our penultimate expedition to the north face of Grand Zoras, I accidentally left my helmet behind on what was a challenging route. Midway through, we overtook a Scottish climber, who noticed my lack of gear. He looked at me curiously, and I responded, ‘Crazy Montenegrin.’ He, trying to avoid offending me, said, ‘No! Strong man!’ This sparked a hearty laugh that echoed across the Grand Zoras face.”

NEED FOR IMPROVED RECOGNITION BY INSTITUTIONS

Initially, when Rajko began mountaineering, he believed there were countless mountaineers in Montenegro.

“Back then, I had no idea how few truly practiced serious alpinism—less than a dozen who engage in authentic climbing, which employs traditional alpine techniques involving dry and frozen rock, snow, and ice,” he reflects.

He notes that Montenegro, or specifically the Mountaineering Association (PSCG), lacked a Commission for Alpinism, which led to a blurred distinction between mountaineering and alpinism. Climbing through straightforward trails cannot be deemed alpinism, he insists.

Recently, the PSCG formed a Mountaineering Commission, introducing regulations and standards for obtaining mountaineer titles and the scheduling of instructional courses.

“Even amidst efforts to create certified mountaineering instructors, only four currently exist in Montenegro,” he explains, stressing that this shortage hinders the development of aspiring younger mountaineers within a supported framework.

“Youth must not engage in mountaineering as we did, without proper guidance.”

He points out that obtaining licenses and certifications is frequently pursued in neighboring countries.

“Where conditions for such qualifications are considerably advanced; our results on the north face of Grand Jura and Eiger surpassed many of theirs,” he asserts.

Despite their achievements, they have received virtually no support from the Royal Capital Cetinje, the PSCG, or the Ministry of Sports, which does not recognize a national mountaineering team, as voted during the last Mountaineering Congress. Instead, they perform unofficially because mountaineering in Montenegro is not viewed as a competitive sport, unlike neighboring countries.

Rajko Popović hopes the future will bring unified recognition of all mountaineering activities—traditional, high-altitude climbing, canyoning, caving, sport climbing, and more.

“We aspire to establish individual committees for each activity to oversee their administration, education, and expansion of participants. By promoting transparency, individuals interested in these pursuits can better engage without the misdeeds of the past, where acquaintanceships led to the awarding of unwarranted titles. I genuinely hope this era is behind us and that brighter days lie ahead.”

He notes how Montenegro is “God-given” for these pursuits.

“It’s regretful not to have a swarm of young professional guides, instructors, and mountaineers. This could significantly enhance community awareness and encourage more people to immerse themselves in nature, ultimately enriching our society.”

To emphasize how mountaineering is regarded in other countries, he cites the case of the Serbian national team:

“Comprising four members, they have sponsors, receive scholarships, bonuses for ascents completed, and other benefits. They were established with the aim of conquering three key Alpine peaks: the Eiger, Grand Jura, and Matterhorn, none of which they have summited yet.”

Rajko firmly believes that mountaineering warrants much better treatment and opportunities from Montenegrin institutions.

“It is an honorable sport: devoid of fans, it is a solitary battle with oneself, lacking the extravagance seen in mainstream sports, while also not being excessively monetized. In exchange, it serves as a positive model for youth, steering them away from detrimental behaviors prevalent today. Sports are often exploited for gambling advertising, with athletes endorsing bookmakers and casinos during breaks. The exploitation of sport in this way is abominable; it exposes young people to significant vices like gambling.”

DIFFICULTY IN OBTAINING EQUIPMENT AND SPONSORS

Acquiring necessary equipment too poses challenges.

“I source all essential certified gear online, but due to recent limitations in order fulfillment, we now frequently travel to Croatia to pick up ordered items,” Rajko explains. Recently, they had to visit Split’s “Decathlon” to collect a package from France containing specialized sleep gear and Gorotex clothing, specifically intended for their Eiger expedition.

Regarding expedition sponsorship, they have previously made an effort—four years ago—to raise funds for an ascent over 7,000 meters.

“In that effort, we only managed to gather 1,400 euros, far below the 10,000 euros needed for four of us,” he recalls.

LIVING FREELY

When not scaling peaks, the Popovićs engage in commercial canyoning, leading tours in eight Montenegrin canyons from April to November. Additionally, they have been involved in high-altitude work for the past two years.

“Since I have ample free time, we create our lives based on our own ideals. We live freely—true to our club’s ethos. Alongside these activities, I also run my private business, which has supported all our endeavors for years.”

The Popovićs document their adventures and share them on their website, slobodnipenjaci.com, and on YouTube.

After their experience in Kosijeri, Rajko shares plans for a new series titled “Debunking Speleological Myths of Montenegro.”

Regarding the aftermath of Eiger, the Popovićs note:

“I don’t disclose final details; I wouldn’t even share specifics about Eiger unless it was a representative expedition, documented along with my fellow commissions, Djoko Vujicic and Ivan Laković, who embody the genuine spirit of mountaineering.”

THE EIGER: SUMMITED IN 1938

The first serious attempt to summit the Eiger occurred in 1935, originally a project aimed at uniting Germany. Early attempts by Bavarians Willi Beck, Kurt, and Georg Luwinger culminated in a setback at 2,900 meters, while a year later, young alpinists Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer reached 3,300 meters, where they tragically perished in a storm and avalanche, in an area now known as the ‘Bivouac of Death.’ After several fatal attempts, Bavarians Andreas Hinterstosser and Toni Kurz set out in 1936, whose story is depicted in the film “The North Face” (2008). They too met with tragedy, yet they established the “Hinterstosser Traverse.” Finally, on July 24, 1938, a German-Austrian team comprising Anderl Heckmayer, Ludwig Worg, Heinrich Harer, and Fritz Kašparek achieved the first successful ascent of the Eiger.

The route Rajko and Dejan Popović used to ascend the north face has been aptly named “Hekmajer-Harer.”

WHO DOCUMENTS ROUTES AND CLIMBERS?

In Montenegro, the Popovićs frequently climb must-visit areas such as Prokletije, Durmitor, Orjen, and Lovćen, alongside various lesser-known sites.

“Of all the crags in Montenegro, Prokletije remains the most vulnerable, where we have made significant contributions to Montenegrin alpinism, especially in winter conditions,” he asserts, highlighting that access to Prokletije was restricted until the 1990s due to the SFRY-Albania diplomatic tensions, affording them the scope to pioneer and raise standards today.

“In contrast, much of Western Europe’s climbs have been established long ago.”

Beyond documenting climbs, Rajko illustrates routes on photographs along with sketches of directions.

“The only person persistently cataloging climbs in Prokletije is Milovan Ljubojević, a Serbian mountaineer and author of a guidebook. Unfortunately, no one in Montenegro has assumed this responsibility. Given the lack of a commission, records of climbs were hardly maintained when mountaineering was in its infancy, as there was no platform for registering first ascents,” he explains.

To further portray their situation, he recounts a misunderstanding with the Serbian national team regarding a route on Prokletije during winter preparations.

“They retreated from that route, whereas we successfully climbed it a few days later as the first to do so in winter. Although someone had ascended during the summer, the climber’s identity and ratings remain unknown. Until we determine accordingly, I’ve dubbed the route ‘Sugar Snowfall.’ Moving forward, I anticipate improving our documentation efforts through the Mountaineering Commission, ensuring all climbers can submit their records, supported by photographs or videos, to be listed on the website, although this initiative is still in early stages.”