Strolling along Njegoševa Street, the vibrant heart of the Royal Capital, is a journey through history, yet something has been amiss since the tragic earthquake in 1979. The impressive cafes, shops, and timeworn sidewalks speak volumes, but Cetinje still lacks one crucial element of its identity.

This vital cultural element, a gem of hospitality, was established in the mid-1860s only to be lost when a powerful earthquake struck in 1979, claiming hundreds of lives throughout Montenegro. Today, where once poets, diplomats, and weary travelers gathered near Artists’ Square to share stories in diverse languages, there stands only an empty lot.

However, after nearly half a century, attention has finally turned to this key missing piece in the city’s heart, marking the beginning of the restoration of the historic Lokanda Hotel – a cornerstone of Montenegrin culture.

Many now place their hopes on the revival of this iconic building, with projected restoration costs nearing 14 million euros.

The first hotel in Montenegro

Lokanda was not merely a hotel; it was the social hub of Cetinje, witnessing the evolution of Montenegro through the years, as stated by Marko Brnović, Deputy Mayor of the Royal Capital. He highlighted that educated Montenegrins abroad, notable residents, and foreigners gathered there, forming the core of the national youth. According to Brnović, Lokanda became a spiritual center for Montenegro’s intellectual elite, influencing political, democratic, and literary thought within the country.

“Renowned figures such as Bernard Shaw, who visited Montenegro in 1929, and the poet Byron, captivated by its beauty, were among the guests who frequented Lokanda,” Brnović added. The atmosphere was vividly captured by Momo Kapor in his book ‘The Green Tea of Montenegro,’ where he described it as a place where the spirit of Montenegro thrived. Although Lokanda fell to ruin after the 1979 earthquake, its legacy continues, and the mention of ‘Lokanda’ still invokes pride among Cetinje residents, stirring memories of the past as they walk along Njegoševa Street,” remarked Brnović.

The history of Lokanda traces back to its establishment in 1864 as Montenegro’s first hotel, thereby securing a special place in the nation’s cultural and historical tapestry. Built during the reign of Prince Nikola I Petrović Njegoš, it marked a period of burgeoning social life and increased foreign visitors. Brnović noted that the building was necessitated by previous accommodations, such as private rooms and taverns, which failed to meet the growing demand for lodging.

Initiated by Mirko Petrović, President of the Montenegrin Senate and father of Prince Nikola, the hotel was originally named the “Grand Hotel.”

The tavern, located at the end of Njegoševa Street, alongside later constructions like the Girls’ Institute, English Embassy, post office, and city park, framed a picturesque square.

Historic photos reveal that Cetinje was constructed with limited resources, mandating simplicity in its architecture, including Lokanda. Nevertheless, Brnović noted that the designer remains unidentified in the records, although it can be presumed that French architects, active in Montenegro at the time, may have been responsible for its design.

“Initially, the hotel offered only eight rooms but quickly gained a reputation for exceptional service and fine dining. Guests enjoyed exquisite French cuisine and the finest wines, complemented by staff who were multilingual. The menus were even printed in multiple languages. As the years passed, additional floors, lounges, and restaurants were integrated, with the hotel expanding to 41 rooms and approximately 100 beds during the interwar period, while still maintaining its original charm. It even became the U.S. diplomatic mission for part of the 20th century. Given its historical and cultural importance, Lokanda is classified as a cultural monument of Montenegro, incorporated into the protected cultural heritage – the Historical Core of Cetinje,” Brnović clarified.

The legend comes to life in February

Currently, nothing remains of Lokanda except a construction fence surrounding its former site, now a patch of excavated sand.

Brnović emphasized that the legend of Lokanda is alive in the memories of locals, and while the structure may be gone, its spirit, grandeur, and elegance are forever part of the Royal Capital’s narrative.

This is precisely why the reconstruction is critical, safeguarding cultural heritage and maximizing the potential of the city.

Consequently, the Royal Capital initiated a tender for a public-private partnership (PPP) on October 30 last year, aiming to select a private partner for the design, financing, construction, and management of the Lokanda hotel, which will feature a two-story underground garage and the revitalized Artists’ Square.

The project, valued at approximately 13.78 million euros, was awarded to “Talija Company” from Herceg Novi.

“This marks Montenegro’s first public call for a PPP contract under the new law. The call concluded on December 26, 2024. Following evaluations and approvals from relevant state institutions, we expect to finalize the agreement with the selected private partner by mid-February 2025, initiating this project. Besides its cultural and historical significance, the hotel construction will enhance tourism and accommodation options, fostering new job opportunities. The project also encompasses the creation of a 130-space underground parking facility in the city center, ensuring that the new hotel remains within the parameters of the original structure, which will offer around 30 rooms and approximately 40 to 50 beds. The PPP contract outlines a 30-month timeframe for implementation, allowing for six months of project and technical documentation preparation followed by 24 months for the actual hotel and garage construction,” he explained. Brnović added that this is a landmark endeavor for the Royal Capital, expected to yield considerable benefits.

Having diligently worked on the Lokanda restoration for three years, Brnović affirmed that all legal prerequisites have been fulfilled, with necessary approvals, feasibility studies, and conservation research already conducted to ascertain specific dimensions, construction methods, and pertinent information regarding the hotel.

Center for Cosmopolitan Dialogue

Cetinje historian Petar Glendža emphasized the immense significance of Lokanda, stating that its importance has persisted through the decades since its inception and demolition, and he welcomes news of its restoration.

However, he noted that this is just the beginning, underlining the necessity for the hotel to operate at a high level, ensuring that every visitor feels transported to a unique location steeped in tradition. It’s vital, Glendža argued, for both foreigners and Montenegrins to remember that in the late 19th century, Lokanda was a place where discussions on current affairs occurred seamlessly in nine languages.

Glendža explained that Lokanda was conceived as a state project between 1863 and 1864, reflecting the growing number of foreign diplomatic visitors. The project was initiated by Duke Mirko Petrović.

He highlighted its classical architectural elements, noting that it remarkably maintained a harmonious aesthetic, garnered admiration even after numerous renovations. Initially comprising eight rooms and a restaurant, it expanded by the early 20th century to boast multiple eateries and a well-kept wine cellar. Renovations during the interwar years further doubled its room capacity.

“All prominent guests of Montenegro and Cetinje were invariably associated with Lokanda. Historical records indicate it served as a gathering place for foreigners, creating a bridge between Montenegro and the modern world. Visitors could enjoy French cognacs and German beers; read German literary magazines and European newspapers; and communicate with staff in several languages, a testament to the establishment’s serious commitment to providing top-tier service and highlighting its pivotal role. Furthermore, being the official venue for the U.S. diplomatic mission attests to its esteemed status,” remarked Glendža, who added that the hotel was ultimately demolished due to irreversible damage from the earthquake in 1979.

He shared that many residents believe the decision to demolish Lokanda was made hastily, with ongoing debates fueled by photographs from the time showing minimal damage, contrasted with the considerable force of explosives used during the demolition. This powerful detonation remains a vivid memory etched in the collective consciousness of the city.

“I refrain from making a definitive judgment, but the decision indeed raises eyebrows. One might consider whether it reflects the broader treatment of Cetinje by the republican authorities post-1945, suggesting that alternatives may not have been adequately explored to preserve such a symbol of Montenegro’s rich history,” Glendža concluded.

The people of Cetinje share a palpable affection for Lokanda, recognizing that until this cherished landmark is restored, the historic center of the Royal Capital, already rich in culture, will remain incomplete.

Received conservation conditions

In 1960, the restaurant was designated as an immovable cultural property based on its status as part of the “Historical Core of Cetinje,” which also retains its protective designation. Therefore, renovation works on buildings within this entity must comply with provisions outlined in the Law on the Protection of Cultural Property.

This information was confirmed by the Ministry of Culture and Media in response to inquiries regarding Lokanda’s cultural status and participation in its restoration.

They clarified that the Administration for the Protection of Cultural Heritage provided conservation conditions at the request of the Royal Capital, serving as a basis for the forthcoming project documentation related to the renovation.

“Lokanda’s status remains unchanged, supported by documentation detailing its visual character and features, which guide its reconstruction. The Directorate for Cultural Heritage, part of the Ministry, is tasked with strategizing the protection, preservation, valorization, and presentation of immovable, movable, and intangible cultural heritage while fulfilling public interests, laying the groundwork for economic development and sustainable facility management,” the ministry elaborated.

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